The long weekend turned into an “unexpected chaotic adventure” (that’s my positive description for it).
On Friday, Leigh packed her things and left My Tho with us. Nick got us all a taxi to Ho Chi Minh City. We stayed in Madame Cucs in the backpacker district. A girl from Riley’s home town who had been volunteering up north met with us. She was quite interesting and I think that Riley was pretty embarrassed by her. She was really negative about everything, one of those people who suck the life out of you. We ordered western food. Most of us got pizza. It wasn’t the best but it would do.
On Saturday morning I went to the Cu Chi tunnels with the boys: Dave, Frank and Will. It was an hour and a half drive away from Ho Chi Minh. Our tour guide was hilarious! He was trying so hard to make jokes and that’s what made him funny. He also called attention to me and another American and said that the Vietnamese do not like to talk about the war. They believe in forgiving and forgetting. They have forgiven the Americans a long time ago and don’t like bringing things up from the past. “My generation was not a part of the war. It is not our problem. We only talk about future, “ he said. He said that Vietnam is very happy to have us and to spread the word that we are always welcome.
As we drove through Cu Chi, I took notice of all of the perfect rows of trees that had ribbons around their tiny trunks. They were fairly new, maybe 30 years old at most. I thought of the war. They must have been replanted after the devastation. My suspicions were confirmed when we learned about the history of Cu Chi. It is an agricultural town and the gateway to the city. During the war, the enemy tried very hard to seize Cu Chi. So the people of Cu Chi built bombs and traps to fight back and to protect their land. They built a series of underground tunnels up to 10 metres and lived under there. We got to go in the tunnels and they were so small! They have made the original ones slightly bigger so the tourists could fit through but they were so hot and small anyway! I don’t know how people survived in them. It was an incredible experience. I couldn’t make it through the entire thing. It is rare for people to do so. I think I only made it 25 metres which is where the first exit is.
When we got back to Ho Chi Minh, I ate lunch with the boys. They went to take naps and I went to a spa and had the best massage with oatmeal, turmeric and fruit scrub. It was only $5 and best spa experience I have had. Then I found Riley and her friend in a tattoo shop and visited them for a little bit. I bought some souvenirs and went back to the hotel to get ready.
We all went out to the Street Pub and met with one of the coordinators Charlie and his friend. His friend and I had a great conversation and he said that the hardest part about traveling is not being able to share your experiences with everyone and you have to bite your tongue. I said I understood that all too well and get myself into trouble because I ignore that rule. Then we went to a bar called Acopolypse Now. The latter was so much fun. I didn’t drink but it was so much fun dancing with everyone. They played great music. Half of the bar was filled with westerners and the other half Vietnamese. Everyone danced together and had a glorious time. Riley was a pimpette that night but unfortunately met a man who would later stalk her with continuous phone calls and texts the next day. We said goodbye to Leigh who was off to continue her journey around Vietnam with her boyfriend. Riley and I took a taxi back to the hotel. We got out of the taxi and lingered in front of the hotel and thought about getting some sort of food because we had to leave on the train for Phan Thiet in a few hours. We starting walking and I just got done saying what a great night it was when all of a sudden I felt a snap and a tug and in a spit second I saw my purse fly through the air. I was in shock and it took a few seconds to realise what had happened. Two men on a motorbike have driven past and stole my bag! I was confused! How did they do it?! I had the strap around my body and the bag was in front of me and I was holding it. I later figured out with the boys that they must have cut the strap and the speed of the motorbike made it impossible to hold on to. They also broke and most likely took my favourite necklace as well.
Locals came out of their apartments and motorbikes stopped. A nice boy and his friends who spoke good English stayed with us until we calmed down. We tried to stop the police several times as they drove past but no one would stop. Everyone apologised. A man said to ask the hotel to call the police. It could have been worse. My purse only held an old cell phone, a small camera that started acting strange anyway and 500,000 dong ($25). The lady at the hotel said that the police would not come at that hour and said she would call in the morning. We were out of luck. Riley and I were leaving in about 3 hours.
In the room, I was trying to rest and not be upset. I was freaking myself out because my luggage key and the address of my hotel were in my purse. What if they tried to come back! The images of my purse being tugged and flying away from me kept repeating in my head. We shouldn’t have been outside that long at that late! If we would have just walked into the hotel right after we got dropped off we would have been fine. Then I heard a creepy noise that sounded as if someone was in the room. I freaked out and jumped into Riley’s bed. She heard it too and said that she was really creeped out. She went outside to check for anything and we slept with the lights on. I could not wait to be gone from Ho Chi Minh City in a few hours.
The taxi came around 6am and took us to the train station. I was wearing the same outfit as the night before because I could not get into my luggage because it was locked. The train ride helped me to feel better. It was so beautiful and scenic. We passed endless fields of green, rice paddies, rivers, streams, mountains, flowers, dragon fruit plantations. Big brown bulls were standing in the green fields watching the train go by. Locals and farmers would stand like statues in the fields and watch the train go by. It was really surreal.
We arrived in Phan Thiet around 1130 am. The crowd outside the train station was a little too overwhelming, especially for me after my experience. We got in the taxi and he drove through a town similar to My Tho and rounded a corner of a hill. We got out first glimpse of the turquoise sea. Finally, we pulled up in front of the resort that we found on agoda.com and payed $25 a piece for. The place was unbelievable! It was nicer than any of the resorts that I stayed at in Bali. It was on the beach, had a lovely swimming pool, little villas and bungalow, gardens and tiki huts on the beach. Our room had the most comfortable bed that I had slept in in Vietnam. It was soft, the pillows were firm and soft and the sheets were crisp and white. It was amazing! I went for a swim in the ocean and Riley and I relaxed by the pool after our delicious lunch of seafood and spring rolls. For dinner, we ate at a place across the street and it was all very much homemade and delicious. We had the genius idea to get a massage after dinner. It was a glorious night. I slept really well that night. I tried to get up for the sunrise but my amazing bed won that morning. I went for a walk on the beach and then Riley and I indulged in our free breakfast buffet. This place was unreal! Then I got a 75 minute massage and swam and sat on the beach while Riley was getting a 2 hour manicure and massage. Around 2 pm we left our little piece of heaven and boarded the train back to Ho Chi Minh.
Nick had contacted Jesse and asked her to help me with filing a police report for my travel insurance. We had to go during office hours and unfortunately the train didn’t make it back in time. Riley was so amazing and said that she would stay in Ho Chi Minh another night with me so that I could feel better about what happened and know that I have done everything that I possibly could. I really owe her for being so awesome. She let me use her phone so much as well.
So we stayed at a different Madame Cucs which ended up being right next to the police station. We ate the best dinner I have had yet in Vietnam down the street: Tofu with lemongrass and rice and garlic eggplant and green beans. We ended up randomly seeing Charlie along the way and he joined us. He knew all about my bag and said he would ask a few Vietnamese friends of his who worked at pawn shops if anyone turned in my items. I bought a few books at dinner. They were photocopied originals at $3 a piece. I didn’t try to haggle much. I could only imagine how much work it is to photocopy the books.
We said goodbye to Charlie, indulged in real New Zealand Natural Ice Cream that we bought at the convenient store (ice cream in My Tho is not so nice and lacking creaminess). The next morning we met with Jesse who took us to the police station. She had to translate everything I wrote in writing as well. Thank goodness she was there. We sat in a room that had a jail cell as well. The men in it smiled and waved at us. The police man in the room was sitting on a chair with his legs up on another, and snoozing while we were writing our report. It was like a scene from a movie. Jesse had to pick up my paperwork the next day and will give it to me when I am in Ho Chi Minh again. I thanked her so much. This ordeal would certainly make for an interesting story.
Riley and I wrote and read travel books in a café across the street and drank western lattes until our taxi arrived. Our taxi picked us up from Madame Cucs around 1 pm and we were on our way out of the crazy traffic past greener scenery with less noise. When we drove into My Tho, I felt so happy or possibly relieved. We drove by the familiar markets and street stalls. When we arrived at the guesthouse, Mrs. Chin came to greet us. She gave me a big hug and said that she was so sorry about my bag. She said to be careful in Ho Chi Minh and said sorry again.
Mrs. Chin offered to help me buy a new cheap phone. I told her that I would go to the ATM first. As I walked there, I passed little boys who yelled: “Hello, whatchur name!” I walked past the bar and got the usual whistles, stares and hellos. The women smiled and waved to me. It was good to be “home”. As I crossed the street I held my bag very tight. I still couldn’t help being bothered by an occasional off stare of a man on a motorbike.
When I got back to the guesthouse, Mrs. Chin told me to hop on her motorbike and she took me to one of the many cell phone stores in My Tho. She negotiated with the man and ended up getting me a deal on an older Nokia. It was so old that when it was turned on the date said : 01/01/2005. Over all it only cost me $15 for a new sim card and phone. Then Mrs. Chin turned to me and said: “You give me 15,000 dong”. I was confused. What for? Was it for taking me here? Was Mrs. Chin trying to swindle me! Who can I trust anymore! That amount of money was only about 60 cents but at the time of fresh wounds I was a bit alarmed. She pointed to my wallet and repeated herself. So I gave her the money and I hopped back on her bike, very confused. As we walked back into the house, she went to her purse and handed me 15,000 dong. She pointed to her phone and said: “No money. You give money. I give money,” she laughed. Oh, she borrowed money off of me! I felt like an idiot for even thinking that the sweetest woman in the world would steal from me! I guess that’s what happens when you have been burned.
Riley and I had to teach that night. We waited to meet the new volunteers who were on their way back from building. They included: two English sisters from Dubai and a boy from Ireland. Then we were on our way.
I was walking with my backpack strapped in front of me instead of on my back. I received even more stares and laughter than usual by the locals but I was not taking any chances. We walked past the grocery store where the best looking Vietnamese man was present. He is a security guard and he always winks at me. We stopped at the bakery and bought a croissant and continued on our way. We walked past the pork bun stands. We walked past countless hellos. We walked past women wearing rice hats and they peddled along on their bike. We walked past numerous makeshift stands and blankets that sold durian (the worst smelling and tasting fruit ever but these people love it!). We walked past the handicapped selling their lottery tickets. We passed the street cart that sold pet gold fish. We passed the activity centre that had plenty of people doing aerobics to loud music in the parking lot next to a group practicing martial arts. Then we were finally at New World.
The staff at New World kept coming up to me and told me that they were sorry for my loss this weekend. Miss Moon gave me a sympathetic look and apologized for what happened. I told her that it was alright and that it happens sometimes. She told me that it happens every day in Ho Chi Minh City and that it is not safe. She said that once and a while the boys will come from Ho Chi Minh on motorbike and come to My Tho. It doesn’t happen a lot but it has happened. That was not good to know. She apologised again and said that Vietnamese people do not like when this happens because they are very happy to have tourists and visitors to their country. They don’t want to treat them bad or scare them away. I told her that I believed her. More people came up to me to apologise for how I was treated in Ho Chi Minh. Word travels fast in My Tho!
My first class that evening was very good. I got to take over and teach myself. The students have an examination on Saturday and I asked them numerous questions in order for them to practice their English. My second class was a group of students who I have taught before. I also got to take over the lesson. This lesson was right up my alley: environmental issues. In the beginning I explained that I would like to work for a non-profit environmental organisation. I asked them what they already knew about issues and the causes. They were pretty advanced. Then I had to read them a passage about the Kirrabati Islands sinking due to global warming and rising sea levels. The Kirrabiti people could not help the island because they are poor and the problem is being caused by industrial pollution in other countries. Questions were asked to the students about how they would solve and fix the problems. One of the girls asked me: “If I wrote you a letter, to your organisation of the environment, what would you do to help me?” I was impressed that she asked that and I explained what I would do: fundraising, awareness campaigns, etc. It was her turn to look impressed. They were all very involved in the topic and in that moment I really enjoyed being a teacher and having students look up to me.
I left the classroom high on life. Riley and I ate dinner with Miss Moon. She took us for rice soup. We were walking along the street with her and then we turned down a random alley. There were tables set up there and that was the restaurant that she decided to take us to. The food was amazing. The rice soup was really nice, especially with banana leaves, banana tree stems and chilli in it. This is what I really appreciate in Vietnam. The best food will be in the dodgiest looking restaurant. The best café sooda will be in someone’s home with a sign out front that says “café”.
This morning Riley and I went to teach at the school as well. It was so hot today: thirty five degrees Celsius. We took a cab and our cab driver was blasting his music! I looked around at the bustling morning traffic and people setting up their carts and shops for the day. Riley and I taught together and the first class was amazing. The students had a really good teacher and he has them ask us more questions. Then Riley mentioned she played the guitar and the teacher went to get his guitar. Riley played and sang a few songs. She was excellent! The kids loved it. They made me sing and I felt embarrassed because I don’t have the best voice in the world. They loved it anyway. I taught them a few tap steps.
On our break, Riley went across the street and had café sooda at a café or a person’s home. It looked more like a person’s home. They were so friendly there and everyone inside were always smiling. One man knew English a little and helped us to order a second round. We were seated at the usual plastic kid’s table on tiny benches and we were facing the traffic. I enjoyed people watching. I stared at the men across the street just sitting on their motorbikes underneath the shade. I watched the traditional ladies walk with their traditional pales balanced on both sides of them and hanging from a stick. I felt so happy. I am so lucky to be in My Tho. I love it here. It is such a beautiful town.
Riley and I taught another class which also went well and we taught the class tongue twisters that would help them with practicing their pronunciation. We went to lunch at the vegetarian restaurant near the pagoda with the same girl who took us to get our nails done a few weeks back. I feel bad. I forget her name and I feel like we have known her too long now to ask. She mentioned that she heard that vegetables are good for you but she is unsure. The Vietnamese haven’t really caught on how good and important they are for you. Some dishes will be really starchy with none at all. I reassured her that they are excellent and explained their benefits. She once again expressed how happy she is to have us as friends and to practice English with us. She also explained how great it is that we have volunteered at New World. I really feel like we are making a difference in the students’ lives. They know how to read and write well but they don’t have many people to practice their speaking with. That’s why it is good for them to talk to the volunteers. There are no westerners in My Tho except for us and a teacher or two.
I love My Tho and the past 24 hours here and the weekend away have really made me appreciate it and I am very thankful for the experiences and the people that it put in my life. Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow and I can definitely say that My Tho has a special place in my heart.
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